Grandest designs
Crime writer Donna Leon explains her love affair with Venice, and Toni Sepeda looks at where and what to buy in the city, from bolt holes topalazzi
I forget the exact year when it became a status symbol to have a second home in Venice. Perhaps 1600, when Shakespeare’s The Merchant of Venice was first published? Owning a flat in the city can certainly complicate your life: just ask a Venetian. While you’re at it, ask him what it’s like to try to restore a house: it’s always a revelation to see a grown man burst into tears.
These difficulties, however, seem to have no effect on the growing desire for second homes there.
There is a majestic history to Venice: the Doges and the battle of Lepanto; the memory of La Serenissima and its trading empire; and a roll call of celebrated names who sought sanctuary in the city – Canaletto and Tintoretto, Monteverdi and Vivaldi, Byron. There is also a different, more personal history acquired only by those who grew up here, or have lived among the maze of calli and rughe along the banks of the canals for decades: the stories of people falling into the lagoon, the one about the house where the butcher’s wife went to live when she ran off with the shoemaker; the shop that used to sell the beststracchino cheese in the city before it became an estate agency.
The hero of my books, Commissario Brunetti, a detective born and bred in Venice, has watched these changes and spends his days walking through the sestieri (the districts that make up the centre of the city). His flat, added to the top of the building in the 1950s, is abusivo [illegal], and serves as a perfect symbol of what could be – and was – done until the building code was introduced in the 1960s.
Loyal to San Polo, where he now lives, Brunetti still cannot remove Castello from his heart, for it was there that he spent much of his youth. Whenever he has to go to San Marco, his awareness of the presence of so much well-hidden wealth causes him a vague uneasiness. Giudecca might as well be Patagonia.
Yet Brunetti is a man who is always warmed and comforted by beauty, so his spirit can still be lifted by a glance across the canal. Solid, bourgeois Cannaregio comforts him with its busy propriety and the sound of the Veneziano dialect in the shops and bars. Dorsoduro, now almost stripped of food stores, has only one restaurant that interests him. And Santa Croce, just beyond the door of his home, is the neighbourhood in which he feels most comfortable.
A careful look at the facades and rooflines shows how much illegal restoration and addition was done over the years, before the city administration decided that a private citizen did not have the right, and could not be trusted, to remove a window or add a few extra floors to his house. Friends of mine once discovered, when they were putting a lift into their 16th-century palazzo, that someone had removed – some time in the past 400 years – an entire weight-bearing wall. It was also not uncommon for people to steal rooms: simply to open a door and take over an uninhabited room in the flat next door. Over the course of a millennium, things happen and people forget. But where and what to buy now? While Venice is a seductive creature, she is also stealthy – which means you need to draw on all your skills to navigate her housing market. In a city where extensive interior restoration is possible, but exterior changes are largely forbidden, setting, neighbourhood and views all matter. Any buyer will notice that the advertisements in local estate agents’ windows highlight a property’s views, terraces, courtyards and proximity to a canal, rather than its size. Rooftop gardens are especially prized.
A prospective buyer must first select from the six competingsestieri: San Marco, Dorsoduro, San Polo, Santa Croce, Castello and Cannaregio. Then there are the islands, which include Murano and Giudecca. Each has its unique atmosphere, advantages, disadvantages and, of course, prices. You can pick up a two-bedroom flat in an unfashionable back-street for €280,000 (£260,000); a property of similar size in a converted palazzo on the main Strada Nuova would cost €1.4m. Here’s our guide to where to go and what you can get for your money.
San Marco: This sestiere is home to some of the city’s most desirable addresses, and the palazzi that adorn the Grand Canal are as impressive as they are expensive. They often sell for more than £10m. “The most valuable properties on the canal sell for €12,000-€15,000 per square metre,” says Sebastiano Doria, a director of the upmarket estate agency Views on Venice, who has yet to see any lessening in demand from British buyers. “We are working on the restoration of an entire palazzo by Campo Santo Stefano and the Ponte dell’Accademia. It is a perfect location.” Two-bedroom flats there are expected to start at about €1.875m. Dorsoduro: A slender peninsula, flanked on either side by the Grand Canal and the Giudecca Canal, Dorsoduro is favoured by expatriates and artists. The ample boat stops and stunning views mean prices here are on a par with those in San Marco. That said, there are still bargains to be found if you are patient enough – and willing to sacrifice space for location. Venetian Properties (00 39 041 296 0182, www.venetian-properties.com) is selling a 100 sq metre flat at Ponte Lungo, with views of the canal, the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute and the Bacino di San Marco, for €245,000.
The plethora of art galleries now springing up means that butchers, bakers and grocers have mostly disappeared – it’s easier to get a chilled glass of prosecco than a loaf of bread – but at least they’re better than the ubiquitous mask and bead shops.
San Polo: This is still recognisably a family neighbourhood, where, crossing the main campo, you have to dodge as many kids on bikes as you do tourists. Many palazzi – each with a grand piano nobile featuring gothic marble windows and delightful views – have been conveniently and elegantly divided into flats. Prestige Property Group (01935 817188, prestigeproperty.co.uk) has a one-bedroom, 100 sq metre flat on the second floor of a converted 17th-century building between the Church of the Frari and San Polo for €750,000. The area’s peace and domesticity is marred by a shopping artery that connects Rialto market with the rest of the city, which can make getting about a challenge.
Santa Croce: One of the less familiar and more remote of the sestieri, this area has a wealth of charms. Its campi are small and intimate, with delightful buildings, unspoilt by hordes of foreign visitors, and a “neighbourhood” feel: local stores are open at all hours. The property on offer is just as simple and authentic: Knight Frank is selling a restored three-bedroom flat in the Materdomini area for €950,000 (020 7629 8171, knightfrank.com).
Castello:Behind St Mark’s Square, and bordered by the city’s largest public gardens, Castello(where the Biennale is held) is one of only two districts in Venice where the local dialect can be heard in all the shops and cafes. The streets ring with elidedcon-sonants: “Bello!” becomes “Beo!” This authenticity is reflected in beautifully restored properties such as a 130 sq metre flat in a 19th-century building midway between San Francesco della Vigna and Riva degli Schiavoni, on sale for €900,000 with Prestige Property (as above). It has wooden floors, high ceilings, and a coveredroof terrace with panoramic views.
Cannaregio: The western part of Cannaregio is nearly untouched by foreign residents and retains its local appeal, but it is an up-and-coming district, with many British investors succumbing to its more remote charms. The area is served by the smaller, more local black-and-white motoscafi rather than the larger, more crowded vaporetti that ply the Grand Canal. Restaurants are cheaper and better, shops are more affordable and property is not yet as expensive as in the rest of Venice. Venice Agency Real Estate is selling a one-bedroom, 45 sq metre flat with beamed ceilings for €380,000 (00 39 041 244 8945, veniceagency.com). The islands: These are places where you can really get away from it all, yet still bask in the unique charms of the city. Giudecca, which for generations of Venetians was an alien place, to be avoided, has become the latest hot destination and is drawing artists, writers and musicians – Elton John among them – away from Dorsoduro, its trendy neighbour on the other side of the canal.
“Ten years ago, investors weren’t aware of the area,” says Harry Lewis, a director of Savills International (020 7016 3740, savills.com), who is launching a number of new developments on the island this spring. “Now, despite the global recession, there is still considerable interest. The market in Venice hasn’t faltered.”
© Toni Sepeda and Donna Leon 2009.
Brunetti’s Venice by Toni Sepeda, with an introduction by Donna Leon (£12.99), and About Face by Donna Leon (£16.99) will both be published by Heinemann on April 2. To buy them for £11.69 and £15.29 respectively (including p&p), call the Sunday Times BooksFirst 0870 165 8585 or visit timesonline.co.uk/booksfirst
Anyone for Venice?
Our pick of what’s on the market in La Serenissima
Grand Canal. £8.3m
Five-bedroom 17th-century palazzo, presently undergoing renovation, has a private pier. The ornate baroque interior features columns and fireplaces.
Prestige Property;
Giudecca£3.1m
Ca’ Redentore is a two-bedroom, 320 sq metre palazzo flat with wooden floors and roof-terrace views of St Mark’s Square.
Savills International (
Castello£368,000
Near the Arsenale, a one-bedroom, 60 sq metre flat in a restored 16th-century palazzo by Rio di San Martin has cherrywood flooring and marmorino plaster.
Prestige Property;
Dorsoduro £326,000
Two-bed flat near Campo San Barnaba has a bathroom and a living room/kitchen. The owner has the right to moor a boat on the nearby canal.
Properties in Italy;
Tips for prospective buyers
- Spread the word: gossip is the main way to get what you want
- Be patient: the city operates at the pace of the oar, not the superhighway. Browse the estate agents’ windows, but ask lots of questions before you agree to view. It pays not to look too keen
- Be flexible: abandon any preconceptions about what constitutes an ideal place, and balance location and living space.
Posted by Shona Lockhart, 30th March 2009

